Arctictropic Blog

Archive for the 'East Europe' Category

Eastern Europe at the Fall of Communism – Romania

Tuesday, December 14th, 2010

As I was getting ready to leave Debrecen, Hungary , I met a  group of backpackers checking into the hotel. When they found out I was going to Romania – from where they had just returned – they warned me to stock up on food – the markets there were almost empty – the only meager supplies reserved for citizens with ration cards. Though the evil Dictator Nicolae Ceaucescu and his vile wife Elena had been overthrown and executed 9 months before, Romania was still struggling to begin a market economy.

I boarded a night train from Debrecen. During the night we were awakened by the Romanian border guards who stamped a visa into my passport. Clocks were turned an hour ahead

Dawn broke over an endless wasteland of factories and slag heaps of coal.

Around 8 AM the train arrived in the beautiful Medieval town of Sighisoara, Transylvania – where Count Dracula once reigned.

My hotel – The Steara .  After walking though the desolate,beautiful streets, reminiscent of 1910, it was a culture shock to see MTV Europe on a satellite TV in the lobby – playing DJ Jazzy Jeff’s  ”Parent’s Just Don’t Understand ”  - featuring spoled American teenagers riding their parent’s Cadillac through Beverly Hills.  Romanian kids certainly did not undersand – what they were complaining about.

Dinner in my room that night – with food bought in from Hungary – sardines,bread,cheese,Mongolian Vodka. Currency – Romanian Lei is on the table.

Lining up for meat.  I didn’t see any, but perhaps they were expecting a delivery.

Window shopping behind the recently collapsed Iron Curtain.

A Gypsy Woman selling wooden spoons. I was compelled to buy one after she was about to give me the Evil Eye. Most Gypsy women do not want their picture taken as it  ” Steals the Soul ”  and will cast a curse upon the photographer. I was reprieved.

Many people were reluctant to speak to foreigners. Under  Ceaucescu’s Securitate – all contact with outsiders was to be reported within 24 hours under pain of being sent to a labor camp.

FInally , some food – fresh melons.

Roma in the marketplace – mostly selling off household items for cash.

The most common form of transportation in Sighisoara. 20 years later Romania is a modern market economy, but the evils of Communism will never be forgotten. After two days in Romania, it was time to return to New York. I boarded an overnight train to Belgrade Yugoslavia , where I could not leave the station because I did not have a visa – and then on to Vienna to catch a flight Stateside.

Eastern Europe at the Fall of Communism – Eastern Czechoslovakia and Hungary

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

Late on a Sunday night, I boarded at train from Krakow that would arrive in Kosice, Czechoslovakia ( now Slovakia ) the next morning. This Soviet train going from Paris to Moscow, passed by but did not pick up passengers.  I shared a compartment with construction workers – we spoke in broken German while swilling vodka the whole night. Once a bottle was opened, the cap was tossed away.

Kosice was peaceful in the early morning, though there was no place to eat or even have a coffee.

Art Deco Proletarianism.

” Truth ” for the Working Masses.

Punk Concerts – Catching up with the times.

Open discourse. This picture was actually taken in Prague.

Fresh picked harvest.

Late in the morning I boarded another train for Debrecen,Hungary. Finally,I could sit down for an excellent kitchen cooked meal.

On the vast plains near Fuzysabony, Hungary. The flat lands stretch thousands of kilometers eastward to the Urals.

Eastern Europe At The Fall of Communism – Poland

Saturday, November 20th, 2010

The next part of the journey was an overnight train ride from Prague to Krakow, Poland. I was in a sleeper car- comfortable but crowded.

I checked into a fine hotel that was 90,000 zlotys a night, about $ 8.40.  Free elections were being held – Poland had the first free elections about a year before.

Walesa, one of two Poles responsible for the collapse of Communism , ( the other being Pope John Paul II) was President at the time, and lost the election.

Comrade Stalin on the line from Moscow !

Wawel Cathedral – Where John Paul II was Cardinal.

The Black Madonna.

The exchange rate was very advantageous for those with Western currency. Hotels for $ 8, lunch 25 cents, a dollar for dinner. I treated an entire bar of college students to a round of vodka for $2.50.

Train Schedule for all of Poland.

End of The Line – A Place of Pure Evil.

Auschwitz-Birkenau. I took far worse pictures that are inappropriate for this forum.

Eastern Europe At The Fall of Communism – Czechoslovakia – Part 1

Thursday, November 11th, 2010

Prague, October,1990.  A beautiful Indian Summer day. The Velvet Revolution is still less than a year old. Cezechoslovakia is still one country – the “Velvet Divorce ” took place in January,1993.  This timeless scene, on Karlova Most could have been from 1968 in almost any part of Western Europe. However , 1968 in Prague was the time of bloody Soviet repression to retaliate for a brief experiment with freedom. Finally, more than 20 years later, the freedom of the 1960′s could be celebrated. This group was singing long-forbidden Beatles songs.

Freedom of Expression. This was before the Yugoslavian Wars.

One of Communism’s benefits – no ugly signs on historical facades.

While his country is now free – One man voluntarily gives up his freedom !

Eastern Europe at the Fall of Communism – Germany

Monday, November 8th, 2010

Berlin, a few days after  reunification. Parts of the Wall still stand, soon to be chooped up into millions of tiny pieces for sale at $ 10 each.

.

Spoils of the Cold War for the Western victors – the symbols of  non-existent East Germany – swept into the Dustbin of History.

The Dresden Cathedral, still blackened and destroyed by American bombing n 1945 – soon to be restored to its’ former glory.

The First Free Election in a United Germany.

The Reichstag – in 1990, still burned inside  -in 2000,  after restoration, was the seat of German power once again.

The River Spree.

The Trabi – a car that ran on a 2 stroke engine ( like that of a lawn mower ) and had a 15 year waiting list

Eastern Europe at the Fall Of Communism – Photo Series

Saturday, November 6th, 2010

In October of 1990, just after official German Reunification, I traveled from Berlin, in the former East Germany, to Czechoslovakia ( now two nations) ,Poland,Hungary and Romania. While today the Eastern countries are much a part of the modern world, the East 20 years ago was a group of lands newly awakened from a long and stifling slumber.

In the next few days, ArcticTropic will feature a photo series  - Eastern Europe at the Fall Of Communism – to be interspersed with our regular adventure news and updates. Eastern European travel at the time was an adventurous undertaking, given the lack of infrastructure, the lack of any understanding of tourism and the unfamiliarity of many people with the outside world.

Latvia

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

Latvia is not a country of high adventure, but with modern cites in close approximation to old Northern European villages and countryside, it is a great place to hunt and enjoy simplicity on the beaches.

Right now ArcticTropic currently has only one location in Latvia – with room for many more! Go HERE to visit the sites directly.

Lithuania

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

A small peaceful Baltic nation with great hunting in the wintertime – wild boar and red deer.

ArcticTropic currently has two locations in Lithuania – with room for many more! Go HERE to visit the sites directly.

Estonia

Tuesday, September 25th, 2007

Estonia is not the most adventurous country, though included by ArcticTropic because it is old Unspoiled Europe.

Czech Republic

Tuesday, September 25th, 2007

Beyond Prague, the outdoors beckons. ArcticTropic has two hunting lodges and one ski area included now – please suggest any more that should be listed.